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Utshwayelo Lodge, Kosi Bay Mouth Reserve, KZN

Local Buzz:

Right, good people, this is as far north-east as you can book accommodation here in our Rainbow Nation! Imagine Ponta do Ouro in Mozambique just across the border, mix in a sub-tropical vibe and some seriously kiff fat-biking, and you’ll sommer want to saddle up for a beach ride at Utshwayelo right away.

This part of the KwaZulu-Natal north coast remains relatively unexplored, and because it lies within the iSimangaliso World Heritage site, you can bargain on a natural and cultural experience bar none. The royal Tembe clan – members of the Tonga people – have lived here for more than 250 years, and their influence have shaped the traditions which holds sway to this day.

There’s no better place to chill than at the community-owned Utshwayelo, a lodge named for the many ancient fish kraals dotting the nearby Kosi Bay estuary. Enock Tembe and Ken Whitfield run Utshwayelo – in conjunction with the local chief and elders – and you will settle into a lekker and laid-back rhythm as soon as you arrive.

There are a number of prime camping spots spread around the lodge, and accommodation options include well-appointed luxury tents, family chalets and a range of bungalows, all ranging from rustic to elegant. The Ezemvelo protected area start at the lodge gate, with a 2.5km sand track connecting you to Kosi Bay Mouth Reserve and Estuary.

The snorkelling here is off the scale, and in fact better than anywhere else I’ve dipped my head underwater, ever! We spotted a dozen moray eels at least while drifting on the out-going tide, and were surrounded by countless tropical fish (over 200 species have been listed). Other activities include scuba diving, surfing, angling, boating, fly-fishing, 4×4 off-roading and superb trail running.

For more information on the area, visit

The Routes

You have a range of riding options to choose from at Utshwayelo, with an easy family MTB pedal along the gravel road meandering to the lodge. There are a few sandy patches and gentle ascents, but the 12km return ride will be fine for kids and couch potatoes alike; just keep an eye open for occasional traffic.

The real adventure kicks in once you haul out the fat-bikes, though. Your entry point is the Ezemvelo park gate a couple of hundred metres beyond Utshwayelo, with 2.5km of superbly sandy 4×4 track awaiting as you drop down towards the estuary. This ride will not be fun on anything but a fat-bike, except if you’re happy to push or portage in places.

The views to the east are stunning, with the wooden fish kraals inscribing stark patterns upon the shimmering estuary. Where you level out near the water’s edge, cross a wooden bridge (2.2km) and keep left at the next couple of forks.

A small sign indicates the footpath to the beach; follow this through the dense sand-forest as you root-ride the final half a kilometre to the beach. Best would be to plan your ride for low-tide as it gives you more beach to play with as you head either north towards the Moz border (6.9km), or wend your way merrily southwards.

The iSimangaliso MTB Policy is currently under revision for Kosi Bay, but guided rides and solo trails should all be ratified by the time this goes to print. There are also a few single-track trails to the left of the 4×4 track which will make for excellent fat-bike exploration on the vegetated dunes.

We checked them out on a trail run mission, and one can only hope that these routes will also be opened for riding. Your best bet is to chat to Ken at Utshwayelo, as he has all the info on what goes, both on and off the bike.


GRADING: Moderate: steep and extremely sandy track
DURATION: 1-3 hours
CONFIGURATION: Various out-and-back route options
START POINT: Utshwayelo Lodge Gate
GPS COORDS:  26°53’38.4″S 32°51’30.9″E
TERRAIN: Sandy 4×4 track, single-track and beach riding
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS Gate Entry Fee at Ezemvelo entrance
FACILITIES Ablutions, restaurant, bar and secure parking
CELL RECEPTION Mostly Mozambique signal – check your roaming!
BEWARE OF Incoming tides; tourist traffic
MORE INFO Ken Whitfield – (082) 909 3113

Getting There

From Durban, take the N2 north past Empangeni and turn right to Hluhluwe/Sodwana Bay, continuing on the R22 to Mbazwana. Keep going for 45km to a traffic circle, where you turn right to KaNgwanase/Kosibay and the Farazella Border Post. Drive 20km past Emanguzi (KanGwanase) towards the Mozambique border post, only turning right onto a good gravel road 600m before border post. Another 4.5 km will get you to the Utshwayelo Lodge and Camp.